Need a Toyota Xtra Cab 2LT Lift Pump!

[claybodie]

Is there any crossover between years for the lift pump/injection pump for the Toyota Extra Cabs? I'm wondering if an '84 will work in an '87..

Any other ideas on where to find another lift pump for my 1987 Xtra cab?

[Chang-kuao-lo]

Should work, but apparently there is a match-up between the pump and injectors.

[claybodie]

Does anyone know how this unit works? My mechanic is telling me the pumping mechanism is on the top, and that's the only part that is bad.

Would it be possible to just use an electronic pump instead of replacing the whole thing?

[Chang-kuao-lo]

On the top? The diaphragm on the top of the IP is the boost compensator (connects to the intake manifold), gives more fuel as boost pressure rises. What exactly is wrong with the pump? Are you sure it is a problem with the IP? What is it doing, or not doing?

[NiftyNev]

I'm confused! What are we talking about? The IP or the Pump on top of filter housing?

Nev

[johnbush]

I would think that a 2L-T is a 2L-T.....so the IP would be the same throughout the years. As long as it isn't a 2L-TE, which is the same engine block and everything but with electronically timed injection. The injector pump for these is different. Between the years '84 and '87 sounds suspiciously to me like years which may have seen a switchover from the manually timed 2L-T to the electronically timed 2L-TE, but I don't know for sure.

I think the 2L-TE IPs are more readily available than the older 2L-T IPs.

Other than that, I believe that the feed pump on these IPs is toward the front of the pump body, and there is no other lift pump on the truck. The feed pump on the IP, which like everything else on the pump is driven by the timing belt, provides constant fuel to the plungers which provide the higher pressure to the injectors. If needed, there is a manual primer on top of the fuel filter to purge air out of the system. That is how I believe they work.

I am in the midst of IP troubles myself, having an 85 2L-T with a leaking IP, I believe from the front seal. I think I am going to pull the pump and take it in to an injector pump specialist in Denver, but I'm not sure exactly yet. If I find any useful info in this process I'd be happy to share.

[claybodie]

Thanks for the replies.
Ok, so we are talking about the IP (NOT the pump on the filter) for an '87 2L-T.

Basically, the truck died as I was driving and I thought I'd run out of fuel or the filter clogged.

I hooked up a gas can to the fuel intake on the IP and it still wouldn't start.
Took it to a mechanic who said he couldn't get any suction on the IP intake.
So whatever has malfunctioned in the IP has stopped pumping fuel.


Now, I have a spare IP that I don't know the history of, but it's been stripped down and doesn't have the diaphram on top. If that is NOT necessary to the fuel pumping mechanism that it seems like I could swap them out.

Otherwise, I'm going to rip this one out and have it rebuilt by somebody. I've been emailing toyota dealerships in Canada too.

Any thoughts?

[asavage]

Originally Posted by claybodie

Basically, the truck died as I was driving and I thought I'd run out of fuel or the filter clogged.

I hooked up a gas can to the fuel intake on the IP and it still wouldn't start.
Took it to a mechanic who said he couldn't get any suction on the IP intake.
So whatever has malfunctioned in the IP has stopped pumping fuel.

Bummer. Please see this post of mine where I just had a 2L IP rebuilt for the same reason. There are pictures of the failed lift pump housing ring -- on the VE-style IPs, this is internal to the IP and is not "user replaceable" like your SD lift pump was.

Now, I have a spare IP that I don't know the history of, but it's been stripped down and doesn't have the diaphram on top. If that is NOT necessary to the fuel pumping mechanism that it seems like I could swap them out.

The diaphragm on top is either the altitude compensator (on an 2L IP) or a boost compensator (on a 2L-T IP). Without a picture, I can't tell (and maybe not even with a pic). But there is nothing on the top of a VE-style IP (L, 2L, 2L-T) on top that pumps fuel.

Otherwise, I'm going to rip this one out and have it rebuilt by somebody.

I had mine rebuilt by H&H Diesel in Milton, WA -- see invoice for parts & labor in this post. I thought $630 reasonable for the work performed, and that included a $58 feed pump assy. I did not have a chance to install it this past weekend, and this weekend is not looking good either, but it looks beautiful here on my workbench.




(I can't, of course, "bench time" the IP like this. This is only a mock-up of what I'll do to time the IP in the vehicle.)

[claybodie]

WOW!
That's one nice-looking IP!
As far as I can tell, that looks just like my IP in the 2LT.
I'll see if I can take a picture of the one I've got and see what you think.

By the way, how difficult is it to remove the IP? Any special tools required?

[johnbush]

One thing to consider that is probably a moot point if you took your truck to a decent mechanic...but happened to my IP at one point in time was the fuel cut solenoid failed. This is the valve that essentially turns off the motor by shutting off its fuel supply, and the default "no voltage" position is closed. What happened to my truck is that the wire to it became worn and supplied inconsistent voltage, so the truck would just shut off randomly while driving , but as the engine would rattle to a stop it shook the wire around and voila, voltage again, so the truck would start running again.....however sometimes it just would not run at all.

The point is, the symptoms were superficially the same as for a failed IP (engine cranks but no fuel pumped to injectors), but in reality it was just the solenoid that was bad, which can be replaced without removing the IP. My mechanical skills were not as sharp at the time so I had a shop do it, so I can't say what is involved in doing this, but I know you don't need to remove the IP.

One test for the operation of the solenoid is to turn the key to the "on" position (you may want to unplug the glow plug timer first so the glow plugs don't cycle for no reason), then unplug the connector going to the solenoid, and plug it back in. If the solenoid works, your should hear a barely audible clicking noise as the solenoid closes then opens again. It is VERY quiet, but there.

If you do end up removing the IP, I am actually planning on doing this exact thing tomorrow, so I'll be sure to take pictures and report my progress. I've never pulled the IP before, but I have replaced the timing belt. For that you need some way to loosen stubborn bolts and a harmonic balancer puller, but other than that I don't think any special tools are needed. Hints and suggestions for the timing belt job are in several postings on this forum, so I won't go into that.

After perusing the factory manual it does not seem to me that pulling the IP is a whole lot of work once you get the timing belt off. You have to pull off the injector lines, some vacuum lines, and some coolant lines (make sure you drain the coolant out of the radiator AND the engine block first; I'm not sure you have to drain the block if only replacing the timing belt, but I'm pretty sure it is necessary for the removal of the IP), and then just unbolt the IP, and making sure you note the position of the timing marks first between the pump body and the motor for when you replace it.

John