It begins: 2L-TE into '92 V6 Xcab

[Andy87]

Here are some pics... there will be more to show soon hopefully.

You can see the old rear main seal, it wasn't leaking at all, although the dust seal was all tweaked (seemed to serve its function though).

Then the old rear seal after removal... three tries to get it out. The mating surfaces on the crank and housing are fine though.

Then the new seals installed, and then the flywheel installed. The new rear seal fit perfect, nice and tight. I went very slowly, just tapping a little at a time around and around, and it seated in there very well I think.

[DanS]

Andy:

Unplug it at the computer (you'll be removing the ECU anyway). It's easy, and you'll need that room to splice the wiring harness anyway.

As to the clutch. I have a NAPA P/N MU47628-1A bolted to my 3L flywheel (I just got one for the 22R-E). It appears to be correct. :) In that I mean it all went together correctly, and now that the engine/transmission are in the truck, the clutch pedal feels normal and releases the clutch from what I can tell by pushing it around.

On another note: I see a somewhat mangled rubber piece there around the rear main seal housing. I don't remember seeing that one mine, and obviously I did not reassemble it with that in place. Should I be worried? If it would have broken, I should have found it in there when I took everything apart, no?

Dan

[Andy87]

Todd: I was worried about heating the bolt, since I thought there was rubber material in the vibration damper and it might damage that. But, if you did it and it worked alright, then maybe I'll give that a try. I was going to make a brace, just like you did, but I didn't have any flat stock, just some 4' long x 1.25" square tube... so I would've had to drill FOUR holes instead of two, and I started thinking how easy it would be to do it in the truck (and maybe I got lazy). I'll give it another shot this weekend though I think. Edit: also, if you (or anyone) needs V6 stuff, let me know. I'm going to try and make a few bucks off the engine, so if keeping the harness with the engine makes that easier, then that's what I'll do. But, even more importantly than making a few bucks, I really just want to get rid of the crap I can't use. If I don't get any bites for the engine w/harness, we can work out a deal for the harness.

Dan: the mangled seal is the dust seal that goes behind the plate that the bellhousing mounts to. It is a pretty flimsy piece of rubber, but it looks like it still kept most of the dust out. I made sure the new one went on nice and straight.

[Andy87]

Just picked up a MU-47628-1 clutch kit from Napa... should be identical to yours, Dan. Funny thing is, the only supposed difference between this one and the one I got earlier is that the first one is a remanufactured unit, not new. I'll find out in a few hours if the new one fits or not. Maybe the reman unit was made wrong.

I pulled the blower out of the dash this morning, and shoved all the engine wires through to the engine bay. I think Todd mentioned it before, but these V6s have a shitload of wires... I'm glad I'm swapping to a diesel and not trying to retrofit a V6. Hopefully I'll have the V6 out early this Saturday, then the fun begins.

[Andy87]

So.... the new clutch (pressure plate, specifically) doesn't fit my flywheel. The first one I got was too big (the bolt circle was too big), and this new one is too small. They're both supposed to be interchangeable replacments, which is crap, since they're not the same size... but that still doesn't help me get a clutch which does fit my flywheel.

Is there anyone out there that has either a 22r or a 3L or 2LII-T flywheel that can measure the center-to-center spacing of the dowel pins? On mine, the distance is 9.25" (not the diameter, just the center distance directly from one pin to another).

Thanks.

[Andy87]

I don't know what my flywheel is from, but I'm beginning to think it's not a normal 3L flywheel. I found out that the dowel spacing on a standard 22r flywheel is 9"... and mine is 9.25". THing is, it bolted right up to the crank like it was made for it, and the starter engagement seems right. I really don't want to source another flywheel right now. I'm afraid to check, but I think this fucking thing cost me $250 shipped from Oz. I might be able to find another clutch kit that will fit, but will the disc splines fit the tranny? Anybody's guess. I'm going to quiz the feller I bought the flywheel from, but I don't expect much (as far as he knows it's a standard 3L flywheel).

[DanS]

Andy:

I'm hoping to get my dual mass flywheel measured for you this weekend. But it does sound to me like you've got a 3L flywheel from a car or something (I remember reading somewhere that the car and truck 3L flywheels were different).

No idea about the different clutches though.

Dan

[handerso]

Hey Andy,
I ran into the clutch problem also. It turns out there are two clutches for the 22re and only one of them fits the 3L flywheel. I just took my flywheel to parts store and had them bring each of the clutch kits out and tried them both. I think it was the smaller one that ended up fitting.

here is the info on it: Made by: Beck/Arnley WorldParts Part#061-9146 at Checkers Autoparts.

Also I just put my engine back in last night YEHAW! when you get there your power steering pump will fit perfect if you reverse the lower mounting bracket -- that little half moon bar on the bottom front of the ps pump that allows the pump to rotate and thus tighten the belt. then you won't have to find an alternator and new ps pump and all the mounting hardware. I used a 22r motor mount on the passenger side and it worked great...I think they would have worked on the driver's side too but I had the diesel mount for that.

Now I just have to wire this sucker up and presto it will start right???? keeping my fingers crossed.

Andy

[Andy87]

I got the V6 out yesterday. Took a little longer than I expected (exhaust bolts mostly), and a few other things here and there.

I tried tilting the engine up to get at the top bellhousing/engine bolts, but that seemed to make it harder to get to them. There was only one upper bolt that was really difficult to get, but I ended up using an assortment of extensions, a swivel joint, and a short 6-pt socket, with the engine resting on the mounts, and got to it from below.

The best part of all of this is that the V6 clutch actually fits my flywheel. The clutch disk is maybe 8mm smaller in diameter than the wear surface on the flywheel, but that should be fine.

Below are some photos. I should have taken the good advice beforehand and de-greased the V6 and compartment... but I didn't.

[1TonTOYOTA]

Andy, that is a great shot of the V6 engine while out of the truck. I just saw under the hood of a 4runner with the 3.0 V6 yesterday and boy does it have a lot of controls and electronics to deal with. I wanted to ask does this engine have a timing belt and is it OHC? Thanks.

Salvy