Need a Toyota Xtra Cab 2LT Lift Pump!

[asavage]

Originally Posted by claybodie

WOW!
That's one nice-looking IP!

For the kind of money they take, I appreciate them making it look like they did something ;) If you followed the link to the other thread I provided, you can see the bag of used parts that they returned to me.

As far as I can tell, that looks just like my IP in the 2LT.

Pay careful attention to the top cover. If you have the correct IP for your 2L-T, I think that cover will be different. There are more knowledgeable folks here about that than I, hope someone will pipe up.

By the way, how difficult is it to remove the IP? Any special tools required?

I covered that pretty thoroughly in the post above! Yes, some special tools are required, and "done right" even more special tools to put it back on. One can use the witness marks that the factory provides (or that you make during disassembly) to put the pump back on the adapter housing in the same relative location as at disassembly, but it's good shop practise to use a dial indicator on the pressure plunger and measure plunger lift at a specific point in the injection cycle.

There is a picture of the tool in this thread. Recommend that you read it before committing to R&R your IP yourself. This is not like changing a water pump or relining your brakes.

[Chang-kuao-lo]

The pump on top of the filter is simply a priming pump to evacuate the air out when you change your filter.

[asavage]

The hand priming pump on top of the filter . . .



. . . plays no role in the system, once the air is purged after a fuel filter change.

[Chang-kuao-lo]

So, I take it that the injection timing should be measured with a dial guage even if you have a professionally rebuilt pump? I will have to read up on this...

[asavage]

Originally Posted by Chang-kuao-lo

So, I take it that the injection timing should be measured with a dial guage even if you have a professionally rebuilt pump?

On VE-style IPs, there are some internal pump variables that can affect plunger lift vs rotation index. Cam plate wear, of course, but also the timing piston wear and placement. When the IP's rebuilt, the cam plate drive couplers ("rubber bumpers") are usually replaced and that affects where the cam plate's lobes are in relation to the input shaft key.

Things like that.

While putting the IP back to where the witness marks align is close (and I'd guess that nine of ten IPs that get replaced only get that much timing adjustment!), good shop practise is to accurately set the timing by measuring the plunger lift. Which is where this tool comes in.

Diesels are a lot more sensitive to small timing changes than gassers. A couple of degrees makes a big difference.

[Chang-kuao-lo]

Of course, another SST that I don't have... And, according to the post is no longer available from SPX/OTC.

[johnbush]

Try talking to someone who works on old VW diesels. I just pulled my IP yesterday due to leaky seals (front shaft seal turned out even worse than I thought...I'm surprised the truck even ran!) at a friend's place who has rebuilt a couple of 1.6 VW motors. He's got the timing tool used for VWs, and I am crossing my fingers hoping that the tool will work with my IP (for a 2L-T) as well when it comes time to replace it. Everyone says the Denso pump for a 2L-T is nearly a carbon copy of the Bosch VE pump, so.....

John

[claybodie]

Al,
I didn't know you were also interested in Toyota Diesels. Since I've got your ear, could I ask you about power for the 2LT? I understand that it's a small engine for a 4x4, but driving it back from MT it was painfully slow going up hills. Seems like it should have a little more pickup than that with the turbo. Any thoughts on really low power issues?

[claybodie]

John,
Thanks for the info. I've studied the troubleshooting steps in the manual, and am going to make sure the mechanic checks the fuel cut solenoid first before removing the IP.

I found one shop, Seattle Injectors, that has experience with rebuilding these IPs, and they offered a really good price around $350 or so (depending on what exactly failed). Apparently, the reason they can do them so cheap is that they don't do a lot of the machine finishing, so they said quote "it won't look pretty but everything inside will be perfect".

The other place I'm going to try is Oregon Fuel Injection, but they said they have to have the pump ID # before quoting me. However, my pump failed while on SVO, and I've heard they won't warranty work if they find vegetable oil.

Before anyone jumps on veg. oil as the culprit, let me say I'm pretty sure it was a janky Greasecar kit at fault that doesn't heat the oil hot enough. If anyone has more insight into why these pumps fail (I've heard water so far), I'd like to hear it. The other thing I thought of was that I had a clogged diesel fuel filter I had to drive on for a while....if that's the problem I'm just an idiot.

[asavage]

John: The VW tool won't work without removing the starter: the combination of the adapter and the dial indicator is much too long. Here's a mock-up on my bench with the VW tool:




Clay: I didn't know jack about Toyota diesels until I was forced to fix this 1986 for the brother of a friend (the friend I sold the "Bellingham Truck", "Vashon Truck" and "Arlington Trucks" to: I got them all back in exchange for repairing the Toyota). But the IP is a Bosch-licensed VE-style, which I do know about. I can't tell you anything about the power output of your 2L-T, except to say that if the feed pump failed as you think it has, the timing will not advance and power will suffer due to that alone. There could be other factors too of course.

If a shop won't clean the parts on the outside, they won't clean the parts on the inside. Obviously, Seattle Injector does this kind of thing as their main business. I wanted to use them because they're kinda sorta local, but I could not find a single person who would recommend them -- quite the contrary.

WVO is acidic. Leave WVO in the IP and it etches the metal, which is why a proper purge before shutdown is vital -- well, one of the reasons it's vital, anyway. I am not a fan of WVO or SVO -- you've read my reasons before. If you run untransesterified oil as a fuel, you must dot your ayes and cross your tees if you expect the engine -- including the IP -- to last, long-term.

The SD you used to own was very forgiving of alternative "fuels"; the inline IP will put up with a lot, and the agricultural roots of the SD (dating back to 1963!) meant that it was a very sturdy engine, pushrod technology, no OHC, not belts, no chains, all gear drive. If the HP requirements to run the IP double (as might be the case with WVO), the gear drive will take it and the internal drive of the IP will not snap. Contrast this to the Stanadyne DB series IPs (GM 6.xl, Ford/IH 6.9l/7.3l) that regularly snap their shafts when cold-started on WVO, and think about the rubber drive belt for the IP on the Toyota. Also, the VE-style pumps use rubber-like drive bumpers internally, and those have to take the added torque of the more-viscous WVO "fuel".

If I was rebuilding VE-style IPs for a living, I wouldn't warranty one run on WVO/SVO either. You just read why.

The VE-style IP on the LD28 has a belt that drives only the IP: if a cog or two strips, the engine stops, annoying but not expensive. If a cog or two strips on the 2L(-T), kiss the head and pistons goodbye. Makes WVO look expensive, to me. This is in addition to my other reasons (listed at link above).

Your Toyota is a much more refined engine than the SD 720, and drives a lot more like a motor vehicle than a tractor ;) But you may find that it is not as easygoing with your experiments as was the SD in your 720. Sorry to piss on you cornflakes.